The Salt and Pepper Diamond Guide: Five Things We Look For
No two salt and pepper diamonds are alike. Choosing one is closer to choosing a painting than grading a gem.
That's what draws people to them, and it's also why they need a different kind of guide. There's no certificate that tells you whether a pattern is beautiful. Here's what salt and pepper diamonds are, and the five things we look at before we ever set one.
What is a salt and pepper diamond?
A salt and pepper diamond is a natural diamond with a high concentration of visible inclusions: black specks of carbon and other minerals, and white clouds and feathers, scattered through a translucent grey body. The name comes from that mix of dark and light.
In traditional grading, these inclusions would place the stone at the bottom of the clarity scale. But salt and pepper diamonds aren't meant to be clear. Their inclusions are the point, and they make every stone unmistakably its own. You may also see the densest, smokiest stones called "galaxy" diamonds.
How they compare
| Salt and pepper diamond | White diamond | Black moissanite | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Colour | Translucent grey with visible inclusions | Colourless to near-colourless | Deep, even black |
| How it holds light | Soft glow, pattern changes with the light | Bright sparkle | Visible sparkle across its facets |
| Hardness | 10 | 10 | 9.25 (lab-created) |
| Uniqueness | Every stone is one of a kind | Graded to be consistent | Consistent from stone to stone |
Are salt and pepper diamonds durable?
Yes. They're diamonds, with a hardness of 10, and they wear beautifully every day. The one thing to watch is where the inclusions sit. Large inclusions near the edge of a stone can be a weak point on a hard knock, which brings us to what we look for.
The five things we look for
1. The character of the pattern. Some stones are pale grey with a few dark flecks. Others are deep and smoky, dense enough to resemble a night sky. Neither is better. Decide which end of that range you love before you browse, and we'll match the stone to the design and to you.
2. Where the inclusions sit. Inclusions toward the centre are simply beautiful. Heavy clusters right at the edge are a weak point. We favour stones whose darkest clusters sit inward, and we set them in mounts that protect the edges.
3. Life in the light. These stones are translucent, so they change between daylight, lamplight and candlelight. A good one comes alive in all three, which is why a single photograph can only tell you so much.
4. A cut that gives the pattern room. Broad, calm faces show a pattern best. Kite, hexagon, oval, pear and emerald cuts are all excellent choices. Busy faceting and very small stones tend to hide the pattern.
5. A setting that protects it. Heavily included stones deserve a mount that guards their edges. We set salt and pepper diamonds in bezels or carefully placed prongs, so the pattern you love is also protected. And because every stone is unique, a product photograph shows the design rather than your exact diamond. If you're commissioning a custom piece, contact us and we'll talk you through the stone before it's set.
The best cuts and settings
Oval cuts are a classic choice for salt and pepper engagement rings. They're flattering on the hand and give the pattern a wide, open face. Kite and hexagon cuts feel architectural and pair beautifully with Art Deco and gothic designs. Pear cuts suit vintage settings.
For settings, bezels and protective prongs are ideal, especially for heavily included stones. Bright accent stones, such as lab diamonds, bring out the grey of the centre stone.
Why prices vary so much
Salt and pepper diamonds are priced by size, cut and, above all, character. Two stones of the same carat weight can differ widely depending on how striking and well-placed their pattern is. A stone with a beautiful, balanced pattern and inclusions safely away from the edges is worth more than one without, even if a grading report would score them the same.
Frequently asked questions
Are salt and pepper diamonds real diamonds?
Yes. They're natural diamonds, with the same hardness and chemical make-up as any diamond. They simply contain more visible inclusions.
Are salt and pepper diamonds good for engagement rings?
They're an excellent choice. They have the durability of a diamond and a look no one else will share. Choose a stone whose inclusions sit away from the edges, and a setting that protects it.
Are there lab-grown salt and pepper diamonds?
Lab-grown diamonds are usually grown to be as clear as possible, so true salt and pepper stones are almost always natural. Some producers create included lab stones in a similar style. Every salt and pepper diamond we set is natural.
Is an oval salt and pepper diamond ring a good choice?
Yes. The oval is one of the most flattering shapes for salt and pepper diamonds, because its broad face shows the pattern clearly. Browse our Oval Cut Salt and Pepper Diamond Ring.
How do I care for a salt and pepper diamond?
Clean it with warm water, mild soap and a soft brush. Avoid knocking it against hard surfaces, especially if its inclusions are near the edge. See our Jewelry Care Guide.
For the romance behind these stones, read Wearing the Cosmos: The Breathtaking Beauty of Galaxy Diamonds.
Related reading: Alternative Engagement Ring Guide · Custom Ring Options